We waited for her arrival all winter and finally she arrived. We clearly speak about the summer, with the heat, the sun, travelling experiences and especially the sea. Many of us, as soon as they have a few free hours, move as soon as possible to the nearest beach, to have fun, sunbathe and find some relief from the summer heat soaking in the fresh water. Can we bring out pet at the beach? Nothing forbids it, as long as you follow some basic tips to avoid unpleasant consequences. Here is the guide for a good owner at the beach with its dog.

Before leaving

What we need to verify before anything else, is that the bathing establishment or the free beach that we have chosen does not prohibit the entry to the animals. We can simply contact the establishment by phone; such as the local traffic police or consult a list of dog-friendly equipped beaches. The legislation, in fact, is not national, but depends on regional and municipal decisions. For details, you can consult the specific article on the legislation that regulates the access of dogs to the beaches.

Now that we are ready to go, let's make sure that we have everything we need for the trip by car and for the duration of the road trip. In particular, we should check that we have equipped our car with the most suitable devices for the transportation of our dog or dogs, if there are more than one. We remember, in fact, that if we choose to bring two or more dogs with us, we must make sure that they are separated from each other and by the driver with the appropriate means (nets, grids, kennel…) to avoid problems during the trip.

So prepare what we need in the bag:

• Fresh water at will;
• Fresh fruit, pieces of chicken or other light snacks;
• Cooler bag to cool water and food;
• Long leash;
• Cloth to lay on the sand;
• Clean towel to dry the dog after swimming;
• Scoop and bag to collect his needs;
• Sun cream for animals to be applied on the nose and ears for short-haired white dogs;
• Umbrella for both of us;
• His favorite toys.

Do you have everything you need? Then you are good to go

At the beach

We assume that keeping a dog on the beach for a long time, especially in the hottest hours of the day (between 12 am and 16 pm), would be a real torture. The animals, in fact, will be affected by the heat more than we are, so if you really want to take him to the beach, do it for a few hours, early in the morning or in the afternoon. The heat stroke can be lethal for our animal friends, so be careful.

Once we arrive on the beach, we can prepare ourselves to have fun in the water:

• We keep the dog on a leash and never leave it alone;
• We place our towel next the dogs one, spreading it on the sand or on the rocks;
• We leave a bowl of fresh water in the shade;
• Let the dog stretch its legs before entering the water to warm up the muscles;
• We do not bathe if you have recently eaten your usual meal;
• We enter the water together with the dog, but always gradually and with caution, especially if he is afraid, not forcing;
• If he are not very convinced, let's try to stimulate him with his toys, starting from the shore and moving forward a few meters at a time;
• We must always remember that at peak times the sand also burns for our dog, and could even burn his fingertips, so we try to move quickly towards the parts where it is cooler;
• Do not stay in the water for too long, to avoid getting tired too much by swimming;
• Once you’re out of the water, take our bottles of water and rinse the dog's body thoroughly, removing salt and sand, especially from its face and ears;
• We use a clean towel to dry the dog, starting from the ears, as they can cause some annoying ear infections if they remain damp.

We must always remember that space at the beach is shared with other people and that we are not alone. Here are the rules for the perfect owner:

• No one better than us know the personality of our dog, so if we see him tense or frightened, don't let children or other animals approach;
• We place the umbrella in a place quite distant from the others, asking our "neighbours" if they are afraid of dogs;
• We clean any "needs" with a shovel and a hygiene bag, to throw in the nearest basket or to bring with us until you find one to throw it in;
• If the dog begins to bark at another dog, we move to another more distant point or try to distract him with his toys;
• When dogs get to the beach, they love digging holes in the sand. Make sure that they do not submerge other people in sand;
• The first thing the dog will do as soon as he comes out of the water will be to shake his whole body vigorously, covering everyone in the area with water. If possible, exit the water on an isolated spot of the beach.

Each of these points is essential when deciding to bring the dog to the beach, so let's try to follow them carefully.

 How many times have we heard of dogs attacking children? Unfortunately, there can be many causes behind these unpleasant situations, not always due to the personality of the dog, but also, for example, to the poor supervision of parents and their inability to teach children how to behave with dogs and cats. But all this must not make us give up the idea of adopting a puppy, even if we have a very young child at home. The important thing is to follow some tips to consider before and after adoption.

Which dog should I adopt?

There are several false myths about the relationship between children and animals. However, it is not absolutely false that we must give up the idea of adopting a dog if we have a child at home. There are many researches that demonstrate the countless benefits of living with a pet from an early age, to prevent allergies, stimulate the health of the body and even to become sensitive and responsible adults.

In any case, it may be an excellent idea to learn a bit more before adopting a dog, if we have a newborn baby or child at home. In fact, not all dogs are suitable for living with small humans. If a dog is used to a peaceful and silent lifestyle, from one day to the next he would find himself struggling with screams, desperate crying, toy cars at full speed on the floor and too clumsy caresses. A real nightmare!

That's why, before proceeding with the adoption, we should first of all evaluate the set of multiple factors, such as the breed or the starting crosses of the dog, the age, its previous relationship with people, any trauma, but above all the personality, which can derive both from the genetic predisposition and depending on how it lived.

Suitable breeds and not recommended ones

It is certainly always better to adopt a puppy or an adult dog who really needs a home, by contacting a kennel or a specialized association. However, when children are involved, it is often preferred to choose a purebred animal, since it is easier to predict the future size and inclination of the character.

Some dog breeds, in fact, are more suitable for "bearing" the awkward attentions of children. We speak above all of Labrador, Golden Retriever and Border Collie, very affectionate, intelligent and particularly predisposed to listen to the owner, as well as the San Bernardo, which however is more suitable for open spaces. Likewise, the most docile, affectionate and playful breeds, such as the Pug, the Beagle or the Boxer.

On the contrary, overprotective and more attached to the owner breeds, such as the Chihuahua, but also dogs with a greater aggression potential, such as Rottweiler, Pitbull and American Bulldog are not recommended.

Clearly, each of these breeds has a different size, so we will also have to choose based on our available space, but also our free time. A long haired dog will require more care than a shaved haired one. These are all factors to be taken into consideration together with compatibility with children, to avoid being unable to manage the dog after several months of cohabitation.

How important is personality?

In any case, whether it is purebred or half-breed dogs, it is also very important to look after some character aspects. In particular, it must be verified that the animal has fundamental characteristics, such as:

• Wanting to play
• Patience
• Is affectionate
• Low tendency to dominance
• Low territoriality
• Little jealousy towards the property
• Absence of episodes of aggression

All these aspects can be related to both the breed and the experience of the animal, especially if it is a larger puppy or an adult dog. In any case, many incompatible character aspects can be softened by a good educator, in favor of other more suitable traits. That's why we can ask for advice from the veterinarian or an expert educator to help guide us in choosing.

What now?

At this point, you just have to lay the bases for a peaceful and lasting relationship, acting on the education of the child and the dog.

We will have to teach our son that the newcomer is not a toy, but another living being who needs constant respect and care. So you have to explain what to do and what not to do in everyday life, to avoid irritating the dog. Always remember one fundamental thing. If the dog is not aggressive or irritated when the child "tortures" him by playing, it does not mean that he is not bothering him. This situation represents a potential stress factor for the dog, with its consequences.

Therefore, while the animal is sleeping, you will not have to go and disturb him, as well as while eating. By a certain age, it is good that only mom and dad offer the dog the meal, to avoid unpleasant attacks.

As for the dog, however, it may not be a problem if we have adopted a puppy, who will be able to grow together with the child, learning to explore the world day after day. On the contrary, an adult dog may require more attention. If we were to notice some potentially dangerous signs, such as a hint of a snarl or a particularly grim look at the child, we could consult an educator, to prevent possible problems in the future.

The last piece of advice is to constantly supervise the two when they are together, without being too apprehensive. We could pass on our fears to the child, preventing him from living life with his four-legged friend in the right way.

How many cat owners are desperate about the damage caused by cats nails? Torn curtains, ruined sofas, broken mosquito nets are the order of the day in almost all the houses where a cat lives. Who says it has to be this way? Even cats can be educated not to get their nails done on furniture and sofas, thanks to some useful tips.

Why do cats get their nails done on couches?

The claws of the felines are indeed very sharp. Since they are predatory animals, in fact, they absolutely need their deadly weapons in order to hunt small preys. Therefore, they take advantage of all the rough surfaces they can find in the surroundings, to always keep their nails sharp. The bark of the trees, but also the rough asphalt will be excellent for them to do the job. Clearly, we are talking about a situation that occurs in nature, in cats that necessarily have to get food by themselves and therefore needs their nails.

In many other aspects, however, after years of domestic life, most cats might have retained some instinctive attitudes, such as sharpening their nails, despite the hunting which is limited to catching flies, insects, lizards or unfortunate sparrows.

Nevertheless, that's not the only reason why cats get their nails done. Many owners ignore it, but on their fingertips we can find small glands, which produce very important substances for all living things, but especially for animals, these are pheromones. As we explained in detail in the specific article, pheromones are the key to communication between individuals of the same or different species.

In simpler words, they are coded messages, which are "read" by other animals by smelling them. Another cat that passes by will see the scraped object, perceive the pheromones and perceive that "this is not my territory".

In addition, scratching objects also facilitates the growth of "new" nails, removing damaged or simply old ones. Cats nails, in fact, have a cone shape and grow from the inside out. This means that as the new nail is produced inside the cone, the oldest part will be pushed more and more outwards, until it separates, peeling off. That's why we often find very thin pieces of nail around the house.

Finally, according to some theories, cats would sharpen their nails to relax and to train the body, just as any other game. Have you ever noticed how much effort it takes when they start scratching? The shoulders and legs seem to be trying very hard, and indeed, they do

The scratching post, an ally of each owner

It is clear that the first, indispensable advice is to insert a scratching post in our house. These objects are a real life saviour for many owners, thanks to the robust ropes with which they are coated. However, our cat might not always appreciate the scratching post. Here are the most frequent reasons they tend to dislike it:

• It is not located in an interesting part of the house;
• It is too loose compared to the cat's weight;
• The rope has worn out excessively;
• Other cats also use it;
• We have never shown it to him in an interesting way.

What we need to pay attention to: 

• Position: the scratching post must never be placed in areas of the house that are inaccessible to the cat. On the contrary, especially in the first period, we can place it next to their favourite sofa or curtain, offering an interesting alternative to furniture. Furthermore, some cats may find the presence of other people or other animals unpleasant, so in these cases it would be useful to buy more than one, to be left in a quieter area of ​​the house, but always frequented by the cat. For example, we can put it next to the place where it sleeps, because he loves stretching as soon as he wakes up and might get his nails done then;

• Type of scratching post: On the market, you will find a variety of options, from light scratching posts in pressed cardboard to spectacular multi-storey castles. In reality, the choice depends above all on your cats preferences (he might be interested in the simplest scratching post). In any case, make sure to choose one that has the right strength compared to our cat's size. An 8 kg Norwegian will hardly be able to feel stimulated by a small rectangle of pressed cardboard, more suitable instead for small kittens;

• Maintenance: if the rope has now become a mass of tangled threads, it is not necessarily a down side for our cat. Showing the marks on the pole is the real pride for them. For this, we can replace or repair the scratching post only if we see that the cat no longer uses it. A low-cost solution? Get hot glue and cover the scratching post with a new, inexpensive piece of rope;

• Interest: if the cat ignores the scratching post, we must encourage him to use it. For example, we can buy an attractive spray made from catnip, ad spray it directly on the rough part. Alternatively, we can also simply play with him next to the scratching post, moving a small game or toy mouse on top of the ropes. Trying to catch the toy mouse, our cat's nails will inevitably get caught in the scratching post, forcing him to think "wow, I didn't know it worked that way".

What about curtains and couches?

Many owners contact the vet, begging him to remove his cat's nails to solve the problem of scratched furniture. This is not the solution, on the contrary, it would represent failure as owners.

Rather, what we can do is try to cut our cat's nails if they are too long, facilitating the task. We can do it alone, following our simple guide, or we can safely ask the vet to cut them.

The scratching post is an excellent solution, but many cats may still continue to get their nails done on the upholstery. In these cases, we can spray natural repellent essences, such as citrus ones in preferred locations around the house.

Even the noise can be exploited to our advantage, so we can place noisy paper or aluminium sheets to cover the back or the armrests of the sofa. As soon as he puts his paws on it, he will feel uncomfortable because of the noise and will move away. After that, we will proceed by showing him the scratching post as an alternative.

Finally, another solution may be the negative association with an annoying stimulus. Briefly, we fill a spray bottle with water and follow the cat. As soon as he rests his nails on the sofa, we spray water on him; this will hopefully make him stop.

It is important that the cat connects the spray with the gesture of getting his nails done were he shouldn’t. He must think that something annoying will happen if he does. Similarly, we can also make a loud noise, for example clapping our hands behind him.

What about our poor sofa? If the cat has already destroyed it, we will probably have to completely redo the wallpaper, at least in the most disastrous cases. Alternatively, we can choose to turn to some companies specialized in the production of totally scratch-resistant fabrics. By coating the parts of the sofa preferred by the cat with this type of upholstery, we can prevent its destruction. However, we must continue to educate our cat at home.

With these useful tricks, your cat will still be able to have sharp claws without destroying the house.

With autumn approaching, the most fashionable owners indulge themselves in search of the coolest coat for their dog, eager to dress him up in the most unthinkable ways, which  often make animal rights lovers shiver. Regardless of any ethical argument, let's try to understand what are the pros and cons of sweaters, coats and raincoats for dogs (and cats).

Is it useful?

We start from a fundamental point. Today's dogs and cats do not have the same physical, characteristic and behavioural attitudes as those of many years ago. The "function" of the dog in ancient times was to follow the owner on hunting trips, with the great privilege of being able to feed on leftovers inside the house. The cat probably lived in worse conditions, not receiving any meal from the owner; therefore, they must try to hunt small weed prey for the harvest.

Today many of us are horrified at the thought of a cat forced to live like this, in the cold and frost even during winter. In fact, nature, which is really looking out for animals, has provided dogs and cats with many tools to protect themselves from the cold, starting from that beautiful soft coat, which becomes even thicker during the winter.

Over the years, however, as cats have become permanent residents of the armchair by the fireplace and dogs have settled on the owner's bed, nature has decided to reorganize itself, reducing the thickness of the hair, which at that point would no longer be useful in the warmth of the houses.

This premise makes it clear how in reality "modern" dogs and cats are equipped to tolerate cold seasons, thanks to the undercoat that still works perfectly.

In fact, as you may have noticed, dogs and cats that live in the house permanently have a less dense coat than stray ones or those found in gardens and courtyards. In other words, what is not needed in nature is removed. 

At the same time, however, dogs need to go out several times during the day, regardless of the weather conditions. In addition, the sudden change in temperature from the living room to the garden where you walk your dog might cause cold and bronchitis.

That's why the coat can come in handy, especially in some cases:

• Sick, convalescent or delicate animals
• Dogs with short and short hair
• Dogs that live indoors
• Puppies
• Elderly animals
• Very skinny dogs
• Small dogs

With regard to the last aspect, the size of the dog can also greatly affect the temperature. It may seem counterintuitive, but the smaller the animal, the larger its body surface will be compared to a very large dog. Therefore, when it gets colder, the amount of heat that is carried away across the surface of the body will also be greater. It is a rather complicated concept to explain and understand, but it still needs to be taken into consideration.

Which garment should I choose?

The coat is not always useless, although most of the trappings that are applied to it are. The important thing, however, is to choose the most useful and most suitable one for our dog in the right way. Here are some tips:

• Let's choose the right size for our dog. A tight coat will make him feel awkward whilst moving and loose one may not protect him adequately from the cold;
• Make sure that the belly, chest and throat are covered, because they are the most sensitive parts to the cold, so high-necked sweaters are approved, which reach the base of the tail, naturally leaving the “intimate” parts uncovered;
• The material is an important. The interior must be warm, but not irritating, so we choose cloth, fleece and other materials that do not sting, such as wool;
• The raincoat is highly recommended for all dogs, with short and even long hair, because they help keep the coat dry even on the wettest days (and not just when it rains).

The ideal coat, therefore, is certainly the one that is waterproof on the outside and warm on the inside, always paying attention to cover the most sensitive and exposed parts.

Finally, as regards to a small ethical parenthesis, there is nothing wrong with making our animals wear cute and fun clothes, but let's just remember that they are not children or dolls, so let's rely on our common sense.

They call them in many different ways; intelligence games, interactive games, mental activation, but the concept behind these exercises is always the same: they stimulate the dog to concentrate and develop his intellectual skills. What are mental activation games and how are they used?

What are they for

Mental activation games, as the name suggests, are intended to satisfy the dog's natural intelligence. In fact, all dogs are equipped with a particularly intuitive brain, a factor that allows them to learn the commands given by the owner, becoming to all intents and purposes the man's best friend.

However, this skill must be cultivated in the right way, otherwise it might become an unused weapon. In simpler words, if we don't go to the gym, our biceps are unlikely to become toned and sculpted. The same stands for our brain and the dog's brain, which needs constant training to work at its maximum capacity.

For this purpose, on the one hand, education takes over, which can be compared to the school education of children or intelligence games, which develop the mental skills of the dog, while still allowing him to have fun, exactly like the numerous toys for children found in stores.

Specifically, the goals of mental activation games are to:

• Help the dog to independently find the solution to problems (problem solving), in order to receive a reward, a compliment from the owner or a snack hidden in the game;
• Help the dog to easily accept the solitary moments in the house alone, preventing problems such as separation anxiety;
• Find a challenging game for hyperactive or compulsive disorder dogs;
• Increase his self-esteem and self-confidence;
• Keep stress, boredom and depression under control;
• Strengthen autonomous reasoning skills.

In addition, we should always keep in mind that exercise activates the dog's body and mind, triggering a state of excitement that must necessarily be brought back to a calm state once the game is over or when the animal becomes too euphoric. In other words, when we play pull-and-spring with the dog, the fact of simulating a hunting trip will immediately make him excited. To avoid over-loading, straining the mind and body, we should alternate the more physical game with the more mental one, stopping to ask him for a command (such as "paw" or "sit") or hiding the game to make him search for it, but also by introducing a mental activation game.

The main intelligence games

Mental activation games can be purchased in pet stores or online, but we can also decide to make them yourself. Here are some ideas:

• Chewable games: we are talking about a middle ground between a simple game and an intelligence game. In fact, these toys can be filled with food, so the dog will have to understand how to unscrew the cap or move the object to release the contents. The exercise will not be of great ingenuity, but it can be excellent especially for puppies or dogs who tend to bark or destroy the house when they are left alone. In addition, this type of game also has two other advantages. The first is that it promotes healthy teeth because the dog can chew them safely. The second is linked to another common problem, dogs eating too quickly, because with these games they will have to work for a long time to be able to swallow all the food contained within them;
• Interactive tables: these are small tablets that have different pitfalls, under which food can be hidden. For example, we can find small lifting cones or buttons to be pressed, connected to the drawers below, in which the food is inserted;
• Puzzles: yes, puzzles for dogs exist. We are talking about wooden or plastic tablets that have a series of adjustable blocks, which the dog can slide horizontally or vertically with his paw and muzzle, discovering small snacks hidden under some blocks;
• Do-it-yourself games: there are so many ideas, like a simple transparent plastic cup under which we will put some food. The dog will need to figure out how to turn the glass upside down to free the snacks. Take a look at the numerous online tutorials for other even more complex ideas.

How do we use them?

The first, very important aspect to understand about mental activation games is that it is something that the dog has to solve on his own. It is called "problem solving" precisely because the animal must be able to face the problem in complete autonomy, finding a solution to obtain its reward. This is why it is essential that the owner stays away during the process, encouraging the dog, but never showing him the solution. Do you think a child who has been guided by his parent to do his homework or has simply had it done by his mother is more confident of his abilities?

Another important factor is that we must offer the animal a suitable game for its tastes and its abilities. If our friend gets bored with the chewy games stuffed with food, we could alternatively offer him a puzzle. The same goes for the dog's intellectual abilities too. If we give a complex interactive table to an unexperienced dog , he will never understand how to reach the food, and instead of feeling more confident, he will feel even more frustrated.

Furthermore, considering that these are autonomous games, we should limit our interactions with him unless the game involves our presence as well. Therefore, we don't have to announce the start of the game with a nice "go!", But only show him that that will be his new game for the next few minutes.

Moreover, if the dog fails to solve it, and asks us for help, try to encourage him with a positive attitude, showing him that we are next to him, but that we cannot reveal the solution to him. Rather, we remain silent to avoid distractions.

If more than 15-20 minutes pass by and the dog does not seem to find any solution, we can stop, because he may feel frustrated. We can offer him a simpler game, which he may already know.

Finally, we must always remember that, once the game has been solved, the dog will have already obtained his reward, which is the food inside it. We must remain neutral, without filling him with compliments, caressing him or giving him more food.

Stray cats, tend to be very suspicious. It may happen, however, that they need to be taken to the vet urgently or simply be taken to be able to move them to a new home. But how can we catch a stray cat that does not allow itself to be approached easily?

The situations in which it may be necessary to catch a cat can be many. For example, let's think of the stray sterilization plan promoted by all Italian municipalities. In most cases, these animals are so active and agressive that the only way to take them to the vet is to sedate them. Likewise, stray dogs often fall victim to cars, serial poisoners or the normal dangers of street life, so they may need a visit or intervention from the vet. 

Another situation may be that the cat has found a family of his own, but does let anyone get close to him at all.

In all these cases, some techniques can be put into practice, which we will analyse in detail, from the simplest and obvious ones to the most complex.

First, we need to make sure we have plenty of time. So that we can proceed with some indispensable preliminary operations, which in some cases even take several days, to increase the probability of success at the time of capture:

• We observe the cat in its environment: to understand the nature of the animal, we will have to see how it behaves, observing him without giving the impression that we are there for him. Further on we might even go a bit closer. Let's not get too close, because it could run away. For example, we can sit nearby, watching it slightly but not too intensely. Did he already become suspicious? He stares at us and seems ready to run away on our first move? He is probably very shy. If, on the other hand, he looks at us from a distance, and he seems calm enough, we could be able to approach him easily;

• Be friends with him: we must make sure that the cat understands that we do not want to harm him, by calling and trying to address him in a calm and sweet tone of voice. We avoid standing while we do it, it is best to sit or bend on our knees, to seem less imposing. Let's not stare at it for a long time, but close our eyes repeatedly which is a sign of calmness for all cats;

• "We buy" his trust with food: in the days before the capture - clearly if we have the time - we try to feed him, to make him understand that our intentions are good. Some cats do not approach food if they feel they are in danger, so for the first few times it may be advisable to keep our distance, gradually approaching them when they let us.

All of this may be impossible to put into practice if it is an emergency, for example an injured cat, which in most cases will be too debilitated to escape. In these circumstances, we may therefore have to automatically switch to the capture system.

The ways available to try - and maybe even to succeed - are many, but the most important thing to keep in mind is that cats are not always sweet and cuddly. The more frightened and distrustful he is, the more likely he is to attack us.

So let's get ready with gardener gloves, long-sleeved sweatshirts, blankets and all the less bulky protections that come to mind. We must also prepare the pet carrier that will serve to welcome the cat.

Let's see the various methods available to us to capture the animal:

• Capture with bare hands: highly discouraged in most cases, unless the stray cat already knows us and is perfectly used to being manipulated by humans. In any case, it is always advisable to wear gardener gloves. Alternatively, we can try to grab the cat by standing behind him while he is eating, without picking him up as we would normally do. Rather, let's take it from the "scruff", the accumulation of skin between the shoulder blades, which blocks the animal without causing pain. Of course, we must already have the pet carrier available, to avoid wasting time;

• Capture with a blanket or net: alternatively, we can try another method which is still not recommended. Let's get a heavy blanket or net, which we will throw at the cat while it is eating. At this point we must have the agility to prevent it from running away whilst we lift it to put it in the carrier;

• Capture with the pet carrier: this can be a safer and a mostly effective solution. We put a bowl of warm food on the bottom of the container, wait for the cat to enter completely with the whole body and prepare to close it quickly. Some cats, however, may be more agile than us, leaping out at our first attempt;

• Capture with the cage-trap: it is probably the most suitable method in most cases. Those who need to catch stray animals by profession also adopt it. There are two types of cage-trap, the one with the bait impaled on a small hook and the one with a table on which the food should be placed. In both cases, as soon as the cat touches the food, it will trigger a mechanism that will close the door behind it with a guillotine. It is absolutely not risky and it can even work in our absence, so the cat will feel calmer. However, once the door closes, the cat might react with great fear, trying to free itself in all possible ways.

Given the sad episodes that unfortunately have become increasingly widespread in the last period, we recall that the mistreatment of stray animals is a severely punishable offense. Therefore, the indications given in this article are intended exclusively for all those who have a real need to catch a cat with the sole purpose of treating it or improving the quality of its life, for example by transporting it to a new home.